Itatiaia National Park (INP) – Parque Nacional de Itatiaia (PNI)

There is no way to talk about mountaineering in Brazil without mentioning the Itatiaia National Park (INP). After all, it was the first national park of our country, created in 1937 by the then president Getúlio Vargas, in the heart of the Serra da Mantiqueira. This important Conservation Unit today has 30,000 hectares and is divided between the states of Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais, and close to the border with the state of São Paulo.

Itatiaia means “pointed stones” in Tupi-Guarani. As you may have guessed, the INP is in a mountainous region and comprises some of the highest and most important mountains in Brazil, as is the case of the Pico das Agulhas Negras (something like “Black Needles Peak”) (2,791m), occupying the fifth place. But do not worry, the park offers a huge variety of itineraries and attractions, with varying degrees of difficulty ranging from the “family ride” to the “hard core adventurer”.

The differences in altitude give Itatiaia an incredible biodiversity, from the Atlantic Forest in the lower parts to the altitude fields in the higher parts. The region above 2,000 m alone presents more than 400 species of plants – 11% of which are endemic. Several endangered animals species are found in the INP – as is the case of Muriqui, the largest primate in the Americas. The park is also internationally recognized as a paradise for birdwatching, counting on at least 350 species (Source: ICMBio).

I want to visit the INP: how do I do it?

It sounds incredible, doesn’t it? And it really is. You’ll get to see this and much more. The only way to understand is seeing it – or rather, living it.To make your mouth water, we’ll show you a complete menu on the park itineraries and attractions, so you can taste it better.

The INP is divided into two parts: the plains (Lowlands) and the plateaus (Upperlands). In each one of them you will find a lot of nice activities to do, and it is important to know what you intend to visit, since the entrances to each of them are not exactly close – they are accessed by different cities and roads. That is: if you are going for a weekend, for example, it may be worth visiting just the highlands or just the lowlands, for a matter of time, cost and logistics.

LOWLANDS

The lower part of the INP is located at BR-485 (Rodovia das Flores – “Flowers Highway”), 5.5 km away from the city of Itatiaia – accessed from exit 318 of Presidente Dutra Highway (BR-116).

Tours

Lago Azul (“Blue Lake”)

This is the Itatiaia National Park lighter tour, which leads to the natural pool of the Rio Campo Belo (“Beautiful Field River”). It is quite accessible to the whole family, its most difficult point being a staircase of approximately 120 steps. Nearby there are kiosks that can be used for snacks from 8am to 5pm.

About the trail
Audience: Family
Total distance (round trip): 1km
Total duration: 30 minutes
Level of difficulty: Easy

Maromba Complex: Maromba Natural Pool, Itaporani Waterfall, Véu da Noiva (Bridal Veils) Waterfall

The Maromba Complex is 4 km above the Visitor Center, which can be reached by car, as there is a parking lot on the premises, after the bridge. Access to the Natural Pool of the Maromba is 50 m away from the bridge, to the Cachoeira Itaporani, at 640 m and, in the middle of this trail, there is an access to the Véu da Noiva Waterfall.

About the trail
Audience: Family
Total distance (round trip): 8 km (if all traveled by foot) or 2 km (if traveled by car to the parking lot)
Total duration: 2 to 4 hours
Level of difficulty: Easy to moderate

Poranga Waterfall

Departing from the Visitor Center, walk 800m on the access road to the Maromba Complex, then there are 400m of trail to the waterfall. It is cold, with clear greenish water and has a drop of approximately 10 m, with great volume of water.

About the trail
Audience: Family
Total distance (round trip): 2.4 km
Total duration: 1 hour
Level of difficulty: Easy

Três Picos (“Three Peaks”)

The Três Picos offer, after a steep trail in the Atlantic Forest, the reward of an incredible view of the Paraíba River valley, the park and the foothills of the Serra da Mantiqueira and Serra do Mar (something like “Crying Mountain Rage” and “Sea’s Mountain Rage”). It seems easy at first, but one soon realizes the requirement of good physical conditioning – prepare your legs! It is recommended to walk the trail with a guide.

About the trail

Audience: Beginner and intermediate adventurers
Total distance (round trip): 14 km (with 7 km of climb)
Total duration: 6 to 8 hours
Difficulty level: Moderate to difficult

* To access this attraction, it is necessary to fill out a Term of Responsibility either in the Park entrance, in the Visitor Center or in the Maromba Complex.

Places to look in

Visitor Center

The PNI Visitor Center has a park model, auditorium and interactive room dedicated to lectures and other educational activities, exhibitions on the fauna and flora, art and culture of the region and on the practice of mountaineering. It’s worth the visit!

Mirante do Último Adeus (“Last Goodbye Lookout”)

It is situated only 1 km from the entrance of the park, on a stone 90 m high. From there, you can see the Furnas Hydroelectric Power Station, the mountains of the park, the Campo Belo River and even the region’s cities.

HIGH PART

To get to the Highlands entrance (Posto Marcão), you leave the Presidente Dutra Highway (BR-116) at exit 330A (Engenheiro Passos), follow 26 km along BR-354 to Garganta do Registro (the border point of the states of RJ and MG), and then follow 14 km on dirt road on BR-485 (Rodovia das Flores).

Rebouças

This mountain shelter, dating back to the 1950s, is about 3 km from the Highlands entrance (Posto Marcão). It was reopened in May 2016 after a renovation period. It has capacity for 20 people. Besides these vacancies within the shelter, there is camping space in the surroundings for up to 20 tents, being those for a maximum of 3 people. There are toilets available not only of the visitors staying there, but also for those who are passing through. It’s a reference to several trails, often considered the starting point.

One day trails

Attention: To visit the Highlands, you must complete the Term of Responsibility

Pico das Agulhas Negras

The Pico das Agulhas Negras is the great beloved of the PNI – and when I say great, I mean it! It’s the highest mountain in Rio de Janeiro and the fifth highest in Brazil, with its exuberant 2,791m. One soon understands why it has this name: its rocks are pointed and dark in color. From its peak, it is possible to see the states of RJ, MG and SP.

The trail is quite steep, and you walk a long time on the rocks – where the trail is not fully demarcated. There are no major technical difficulties, but there are some points where rope use is necessary; Thus, the presence of a professional guide and safety equipment are key. In addition, there are many possible ways to climb, so you need to know the mountain.

From the park entrance, it is about 1h30min light to moderate hike (reasonably flat trail) to the base of the mountain. From there, it is another 3 to 5 hours of ascension to the summit, depending on the rhythm of the group.

About the trail
Audience: Intermediate and experienced adventurers
Total distance (round trip): 6 km (gateway to Abrigo Rebouças) + 2.6 km (Abrigo Rebouças to the base) + 5 km (ascension to the summit)
Total duration: about 8 hours
Level of difficulty: Difficult

Maciço das Prateleiras (“Shelves Massif”)

The Maciço das Prateleiras is the second most visited attraction of the INP. It is made up of large blocks of rocks leaning against each other as if stacked. Its summit is 2,539 m high, and can be reached in about 2 to 3 hours. The trail to the base of the mountain is open and well demarcated; the ascension to the summit, though, although not presenting great difficulties, requires an experienced guide and safety equipment, since it is necessary to surpass some a bit more technical passages .

From the base of the Prateleiras, it is possible to know some curious rock formations, such as the Pedra da Tartaruga (“Turtle’s Stone”), the Pedra da Maça (“Apple’s Stone”), the `Pedra do Tubarão (“Shark’s Stone”), the Pedra Sentada ou Assentada (“Sitting or Settled Stone”) and the Bota do Gigante (“Giant’s Boot”).

About the trail
Audience: Beginner and intermediate adventurers
Total distance (round trip): 10 km (from the entrance)
Total duration: 5 to 7 hours (from the entrance)
Difficulty level: Moderate to difficult

Pedra Assentada
For those who like an extra challenge, Pedra Assentada is a good option. Located east from the Prateleiras, this rocky massif requires “scaling” to reach its base, and climbing to reach the summit. It is advisable walk the trail with a guide and safety equipment.

About the trail
Audience: Intermediate to advanced adventurers
Distance (round trip): 6 km (from Abrigo Rebouças)
Total duration: about 7 hours
Difficulty level: Moderate to the base and difficult on final climb

Aiuruoca Valley: Aiuruoca Waterfall + Ovos da Galinha (“Chicken Eggs”)

The trail to the Aiuruoca Waterfall – and its icy waters and 20m fall – is 6 km long from Abrigo Rebouças. On the way there is the access to the Ovos da Galinha, a very curious rock formation of rounded blocks arranged on a stone slab.

The trail also gives access to the Pedra do Sino de Itatiaia (Bell’s Stone), from which it is possible to see the Pedra do Altar (Altar’s Stone) and the Asa de Hermes (Hermes Wing).

About the trail
Audience: Beginner Adventurers
Distance (round trip): 10,6 km (from Abrigo Rebouças)
Total duration: from 6 to 7 hours
Level of difficulty: Moderate

Pedra do Sino de Itatiaia

On the path to the Agulhas Negras, is the exit for the Pedra do Sino de Itatiaia, the third highest mountain in the INP and ninth highest in the country, measuring 2,670 m on its summit. Despite being in Brazil’s Top 10, it is not as visited as the others, making its access routes are not very demarcated. It is recommended take the trail with a guide.

The most used trail, 12 km long, is one of the most strenuous of the park, since it is necessary to climb almost all of the Altar Stone, descend it again until reaching the base of the Pedra do Sino de Itatiaia to only then ascend to the summit. That is, there is much unlevelling to be overcome. You’re going to need strong legs here!

About the trail
Audience: Intermediate adventurers
Total distance (round trip): 12 km
Total duration: 6 to 8 hours
Level of difficulty: Difficult

Pedra do Altar

Also on the way of Agulhas Negras is the access to Pedra do Altar, the eleventh highest mountain in the country, with 2,665 m altitude. Getting to the summit is easy, no need to overcome technical obstacles, just walk! And the view is incredibly rewarding: Agulhas Negras, Prateleiras, Morro do Couto, Asa de Hermes, as well as the sources of the rivers Campo Belo and Aiuruoca.

About the trail
Audience: Beginner Adventurers
Distance (round trip): 6 km (from Abrigo Rebouças)
Total duration: 5 to 6 hours
Level of difficulty: Easy

Asa de Hermes

Also on the path to Agulhas Negras is the access to the Hermes Wing (2,641 m), a rock in diamond shape, balanced on a large rocky block. The trail to the top requires a bit of “escalade”, and the use of climbing equipment as well as leading by a guide are advisable.

About the trail
Audience: Beginners Adventurers to Intermediaries
Distance (round trip): 6 km (from Abrigo Rebouças)
Total duration: 5 to 7 hours
Level of difficulty: Moderate

Cachoeira das Flores (“Flowers Waterfall”)

It is located 500 m from Abrigo Rebouças, in the direction of the Prateleiras, at 2,350 m altitude. Its access is very easy, it has a small but beautiful waterfall and a waterhole for bathing.

About the trail
Audience: Family
Total distance (round trip): 1 km (from Abrigo Rebouças)
Total duration: 30 minutes
Level of difficulty: Easy

Morro do Couto

The walk to Morro do Couto provides a privileged view of the Serra da Mantiqueira and the Paraíba Valley. The access to the summit (2,680m) is quite easy and does not require security equipment.

About the trail
Audience: Beginners Adventurers to Intermediaries
Total distance (round trip): 6 km (from the concierge)
Total duration: about 3 hours
Level of difficulty: Moderate

Crossings (1 or 2 days)

Ruy Braga

The Ruy Braga crossing can be done in two directions – from high to low, or vice versa – as well as in one or two days. The most common is to do it in two days, from high to low. In this case, the overnight can be in the Abrigo Massena or in the Abrigo Água Branca. Although there are not many climbs, the trail is long and therefore it is recommended for people in good physical condition.

During the crossing, the adventurer has incredible views of the main peaks of the park, as well as experience the transition from the vegetation of the altitude fields to the closed Atlantic Forest. It is recommended to take the trail with a guide.

About the crossing
Audience: Intermediate adventurers
Start: Highlands entrance / Abrigo Rebouças (Highlands)
Finish: Maromba Waterfall (Lowlands)
Total distance: about 22 km
Level of difficulty: Moderate
Overnight: Wild camping in the Abrigo Massena or in the Abrigo Água Branca.

Serra Negra (“Black Mountain Range”)

The Serra Negra crossing is done towards Abrigo Rebouças – Maromba, and is indicated to be made in two days. There are quite a few ups and downs, not to mention the so-called Subida da Misericórdia (“Ascension of Mercy” – where they say you pay for all your sins); That is, this is recommended for people with good physical conditioning.

The route is quite diverse: it has a beautiful view of the Agulhas Negras, the Pedra do Altar, the Ovos da Galinha and the Pedra do Sino; you walk by the crest of the Serra Negra, passing through rural properties. The route also offers bathing stops, including in the Cachoeira do Aiuruoca. The park suggests the overnight stay at Pousada da Dona Sônia, in the Matão region.

About the crossing

Audience: Intermediate to advanced adventurers
Start: Highlands entrance / Abrigo Rebouças
Finish: Escorrega Waterfall, in Maromba (Visconde de Mauá – RJ)
Total distance: about 33 km
Difficulty level: Moderate to difficult
Overnight: inn

Rancho Caído (“Fallen Ranch” – Rebouças – Mauá)

The Rebouças – Mauá crossing by Rancho Caído is indicated to be done in two days. The adventurer heads towards the Pedra do Altar, spotting the Ovos de Galinha and the Pedra do Sino; passes through the Vale dos Dinossauros (Dinosaurs Valley – Rio Negro sources) and has the chance to take a bath in the Aiuruoca Waterfall. The overnight is at Rancho Caído – a ranch only in the name, since it’s just a camping area. The first day is harder, the second is easier – except for the Mata-Cavalo (“Horse Killer”) steep descent. You walk most of the time in altitude fields, and it’s recommended for people in good physical condition.

About the crossing
Audience: Beginner and intermediate adventurers
Start: Highlands entrance / Rebouças Shelter
End: Waterfall of Escorrega (in Maromba) or Vale das Cruzes (between Visconde de Mauá and Maringá)
Total distance: about 30 km
Level of difficulty: Moderate
Overnight: Wild camping in the Fallen Ranch (if done in two days)

Circuito Couto – Prateleiras

This crossing is easier than the rest and can be completed in just one day – in about 8 hours. To do so, it is necessary to request authorization in the entrance of the park previously. The walk is virtually done on the crest of the mountain only, being a mixture of climbs and descents; thus, a minimum of physical conditioning is necessary.

About the crossing
Audience: Beginner Adventurers
Start: Morro do Couto summit
End:Mass of the Shelves base
Total distance: about 12 km
Level of difficulty: Moderate
Overnight: none

Are you convinced to set your trip to the Itatiaia National Park? Yes or for sure? These are the main routes and attractions. You’re well served with options, right? There’s fun for all tastes and levels of experience. There’s no excuse, now you’re going to have to get off the couch!

Safety always first

We believe that we do not even need to comment on the importance of consulting guides and professionals before any adventure in nature, right? But let’s talk about it anyway: always look for the route you want and the level of difficulty that awaits you, consult experienced people who know the route, find out if there is any need for extra security equipment and especially if it is a recommended trail to do with a guide.

Don’t want to challenge nature; the mountains have always been and will always be smarter than you. Respect for the environment, with its intrinsic difficulties, and safety always come first!

If you have any questions, please contact us at PMG -Paulista Mountaineering Group for guidance and clarification.

Go ahead and have a good adventure!
For ticket values and other information, consult the official website of the Itatiaia National Park